Panerai inaugurated a brand new chapter in its history with the Luminor Due, introduced in 2016 and dilated with new blue-dialed editions this year. On the one hand, this watch preserves the styling of the first Luminor, that was designed for the Italian navy within the Thirties and provided to them exclusively till the Fifties. On the opposite hand, this new model caters to the various aficionados who need to have a watch that has the design of the iconic predecessor however may be worn for all occasions.
The Luminor Due’s case is about forty % slimmer than that of the initial Luminor. With a height of roughly 10.8 mm, the new model is slim enough to slide below the cuff of a shirt. It also appears catchy on a woman’s wrist, wherever it doesn’t seem too masculine. the standard options of a Luminor ar easily recognizable – and not only by connoisseurs. The pillow-shaped case is very clear. It traces its ancestry to the Radiomir from 1940. For the Luminor Due, too, the case and its large strap lugs ar polished from a solid block of steel. The lugs form a strong unit with the center a part of the case. and also the glossy-finished design with its sides and softly shining sides appears a lot of charming than earlier models.
The magnificence is moreover accentuated by the tight and steeply sloping edge, that leaves the dial many space for fashionable arts. The dial embodies a classically minimalist arrangement with four Arabic numerals at the cardinal points, baton-shaped indexes between them, and a subdial for the seconds at nine o’clock. This ensemble is usual from numberless different Panerai references. The dial’s sandwich-style construction is likewise clear. in this instance, the “sandwich” contains a black, sunburst-polished higher part and a pale beige lower level. They team with the hands to make a tasteful, retro charm. The shimmering black of the higher dial accentuates the elegant look. And as is habitual for Panerai, the numerals, indexes and hands have a permanent, lush green glow in the dark.
And don’t forget the hinged guard over the crown that typifies Panerai watches and serves 2 sensible purposes: protective the crown against shocks and, with its inbuilt lever, keeping the crown firmly ironed into the case and so optimally well insulated. This model’s case is watertight only to thirty meters, therefore it’s not appropriate for bathing, swimming and diving. Therefore, the crown guard serves solely to stop dirt from penetrating. and so on, in operation this small lever may be a beloved ritual for Paneristi. once the guard is opened, the crown is released slightly from the case; later, the winding button is drawn farther outward into its hand-setting position, though this extraction demands a touch of effort from the user. The lever should be opened before the crown is withdrawn, however manual winding by turning the crown may also be accomplished once the crown guard is closed.
After the hands are set, the hinged guard is shut to press the crown back to the case. this is often a helpful operate for to-the-second time setting, that is more expedited by the very fact that the Due’s movement, Caliber P.4000, is provided with a stop-seconds mechanism.
Caliber P.4000, that was a precondition for the slim construction of the Luminor Due, additionally enhances the elegant character of a timekeeper with forms and functions that focus on the necessities. This caliber animates nothing however 3 hands: one every for the hours, the minutes and also the seconds. There’s no date show, and a few Paneristi would possibly lament its absence. The P.4000 is that the slimmest movement ever developed and designed by Panerai. Following its debut within the Radiomir 1940, it’s currently getting used for the primary time within the Luminor Due.
A close look around the sapphire window within the back of the case shows that many rubies are inset into the automated bridge. a number of them function bearings for the third and fourth wheels, so contributory to the leanness of Caliber P.4000. Others minimize friction once the rotor turns. These latter rubies aren’t regularly to bear with the oscillatory weight, however elastically return it to its correct position and assure that it once more glides swimmingly after it’s strayed thanks to blows or shocks. In standard operation, the rotor “floats” slightly on top of these slightly rounded jewels.
Connoisseurs are aware of the strong bridges during this construction from earlier Panerai calibers. an oversized portion of the movement is hidden below one bridge, whereas another one covers the balance, that has variable inertia and is paced at four hz. 2 screws is turned to regulate the vertical play of the balance staff.
The oscillator is finely adjusted by turning four little screws on the rim of the balance. The crammed conditions within the Luminor Due might maybe contribute to a small imbalance in the rate of the P.4000. once we tested the Radiomir 1940 last year, the P.4000 ran with a far smaller deviation of rate and with larger regularity overall.